A revealing and complete biography of doomed hero George Mallory, which includes previously unpublished letters and family papers

In 1924, George Mallory and his companion Andrew Irvine disappeared during a valiant bid to reach the world's highest summit. In May 1999 Mallory's body was found, partly resolving the riddle of whether they succeeded in their bid, 29 years ahead of Hillary and Tenzing.

Peter and Leni Gillman assess the motives and goals of this inspirational yet complex figure, whose life was dominated by his two conflicting passions: his love for his wife Ruth, and Everest - forbidding, unclimbed, 'the wildest dream', as he called it. Drawing on family letters and helped by surviving members of the family, Peter and Leni Gillman present a powerful and affecting portrait of a man torn between competing desires, and the fatal choice he ultimately made.

"A finely wrought and meticulously detailed biography of Mallory ... It is at once compelling and evocative" - Joe Simpson, author of TOUCHING THE VOID

"A rich portrait of a man who defies facile categorisation ... The new biography is spot-on [about the climbing]" - Stephen Venables, Daily Telegraph

"The Gillmans have produced a respectful and thoroughly researched account of Mallory's life" - Observer

"This exemplary biography of Mallory, which draws upon much new material, puts the man in all his many perspectives... Strikingly well balanced" - Jan Morris, Spectator

"It is a masterful achievement - impeccably researched, beautifully written and a delight to read. Without question the Gillmans have written a definitive biography of an utterly fascinating man" - Jon Krakauer

"A poignant story, handsomely told" - Yorkshire Post

"The most compelling read over 12 months ... Go out and buy it" - Ian Wooldridge, Daily Mail

"Mountaineering biography at its best ... A fascinating life, an interior journey coupled with exterior adventure, and well told, too" - Chris Smith, Mail on Sunday